Taufenkopf – Be a Poet

The Taufenkopf near Ginzling is synonymous with steep, characterful granite climbing. Smooth walls, dihedrals and striking cracks cut through the compact rock, offering an astonishing variety of climbing routes within a confined space. Right in the middle of it all runs ‘Sei Poet’, the oldest route on the Taufenkopf. Over a distance of around 180 metres, the route follows cracks and dihedrals up the vertical south-facing wall. The climbing goes up to UIAA 7+ – using fingers, hands and fists, and sometimes requiring considerably more physical effort. Wedges and cams also find their place in the granite, making the search for the right technique and protection an essential part of the route. And it is here, at the very latest, that you realise the meaning of the saying: ‘A crack is ONE long hold.’ The short approach makes the Taufenkopf an easily accessible climbing destination. The route itself, however, demands all the more: it is technical, sustained and varied, with sections where you’re constantly called upon to come up with a good idea for your next move. A route where the granite dictates the line – and with every pitch, you learn a little better how to read it.